Splitter Repair

The only casualty for me from the Chasing the Dragon Hill Climb was the front splitter mount that broke at the end of my last run.



One of the cables apparently bounced and got hung up on something that kept it off the ground, but the other ended up dragging on the ground.



This necessitated making at a minimum a new cable-strut, but I wanted to try something different using fairly thin steel bar and a turnbuckle.

Perusing the aisles at Home Depot Racing Supply revealed these 50 inch x 3/16″ rod turnbuckles for supporting screen doors. With a little work, it appeared I’d be able to use the cable end terminals from Harbor Freight that I used with the cables as well. After a little work with a cutoff wheel, drill (to get the holes in terminal ends sized to the 3/16″ rod), a little sanding and welding… and a trip to Ace to get left-hand thread jam-nuts, and here’s what I came up with:



This will allow easy adjustment both now, and at the end of the year when I rebuild the splitter completely, probably out of wood. It also allows some flex should the splitter hit larger bumps as the cables did, as the 3/16″ rod is fairly flimsy. It’ll do the job, but it’s not exactly going to hold the weight of the car by itself.

With the support side done, I needed to remake the mounts stronger than they were before. Instead of fiddling around with rivets and rivet-plates, I went big. An acquaintance recommended using elevator bolts for this, something I’d never actually heard of prior. Turns out, McMaster carries them (of course they do), and they’re pretty stout. If these fail, then the splitter itself has broken.

I was concerned about it spinning in the dibond when I tried tightening them, however the domed base dug in nice and strong to the bottom. I also used some thicker (1/8″) aluminum angle for the top side where it would meet the new strut.

And finally, the finished product. It should work until the end of the year. We’ll see what V2.0 brings when the time comes 🙂