20′ Enclosed Race Trailer – Part 2 – Jack & Paint

As hinted at in the prior post, the manual jack the trailer came with broke immediately upon arrival home. Thankfully it lived long enough to get the trailer off the ball, but not much further.

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There was a secondary issue, which was with the trailer being longer, I can’t back the Armada as far down the hill, so the ball is effectively higher off the asphalt. Due to that, I had to stack about 8″ of lumber under the jack’s foot to get it high enough off the ball.

Thankfully, they make a “drop leg” jack which has a telescoping foot that can drop down further, essentially increasing the total height the jack can. Shopping around, it turns out that an electric jack with a drop leg was almost the same price as a manual jack of similar spec, so going manual at that point seemed silly. Electric it is!

Here is the new jack. It has a few extra inches of lift over the manual jack right off the bat, and with the drop leg it’s not even close.

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Got it installed on the trailer and did a quick test with a battery. It’s now connected to the hot 12v coming out of the trailer plug, which is convenient. Once the battery for the winch and lights gets installed, it will pull power from there as well so it will be able to run without the truck attached.
You can see here the issue with the hitch ball height.

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With that sorted, it was time to prep for paint. EVERYTHING had to come off the wall. The florescent fixtures, the wiring & outlets, the shore power panel, E-Track, all of it.
It was covered in the usual dust and grime you’d expect from a trailer that’s had a race car living in it, so next, I hosed the hole thing out.
Before:

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After:

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I found that the original shore power plug had been replaced with…whatever this is… so that’s going to get replaced while I have everything apart:

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Next up was paint prep. I taped off as much as possible and put some sheeting down to protect the floor.

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After a gallon and a half of primer…

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…And a gallon of paint, the results are pretty fantastic. It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty darn good for a car hauler.

Hey look, a kart fits!

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It’s not perfect by any means, but it’s pretty darn good. A heck of an improvement, and hey, it’s kid approved!

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Continued in Part 3

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20′ Enclosed Race Trailer – Part 1

Sometimes the right deal comes along at the right time and you kinda just have to go for it.

With the kids getting to karting age, we’ve added a Kart to the fleet, and very quickly realized we’d be able to take either the race car, or the kart to the track, but not both. A buddy of mine had gotten a new trailer, and his came up for sale at a price I couldn’t say no to, and here we are.

The AC and canopy made it an easy sell to the family, which’ll mean we’ll be able to camp out in it too. It’s big enough to haul the entire fleet, as it were, small enough to still fit in our driveway, and not TOO much weight for the Armada to pull.

The trailer is, essentially, a great blank canvas at this point. A plain 20′ box with an 11,000 BTU AC on the roof.

We’re upgrading from a 16′ ‘home built’ from an RV frame open trailer:

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And we’ve now replaced that with a 20′ Haulmark Race Hauler trailer:

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The interior has a few electrical outlets, and a couple of fluorescent fixtures, and some e-track, but is otherwise a great starting point to start modding.

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The plans in approximate order

1. An electric tongue jack to replace the too-short jack who’s handle broke immediately upon arriving home. I had to stack about 8″ of lumber under the jack to get it off the ball on my hill (more on that later), and that just ain’t gonna cut it. Since I need to replace the jack anyway, and the price for jacks with enough lift is nearly the same, going electric is a no-brainer.
2. Paint the walls white. The plain wood is just dark and dreary. Just like with a garage or workshop, white walls help enhance any lighting that you do have.
3. WD hitch for the tow pig. It pulled it ok on the trip home from buying it, but it’ll need a WD hitch in order to pull this thing loaded.
4. E-Track, just, everywhere.
5. Electric winch, which will require welding a plate under the trailer floor to support it, and adding a tongue box to keep the battery.
6. Solar charger for the battery.
7. Tire rack / workbench.
8. LED lighting in the interior.

Should be a fun adventure, because what I REALLY needed at this point was another massive project, obviously!

Continued in Part 2

Setup Stands Part 3 – Setup Setup Setup

Now that the fabrication work is done on the setup pads, it’s time to set up the setup pads so that the setup pads can be use to set up the car.

Setup.

First thing’s first: Paint. It’s always paint.

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Step 2 is…more paint, oddly enough. I picked a fairly central location in the shop for the setup pads, then got them on the car so that they could be squared up, so that their locations can be marked. This is so that each pad goes in the same spot, in the same orientation each time, that way once they’re leveled, they remain consistent.

I made up a stencil to use for marking the floor, put the foot of each corner on the circle in the middle, then marked out the perimeter with tape.

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That done, the stands came out from under the car, the car was moved out of the shop, and each spot was marked:

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Next it was time to level the full set. I started off by setting the feet to their highest setting so that I could find the lowest corner, and then adjust the rest of the pads to meet that corner.

CUE THE LASERS!!!

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I used a couple of my big fabrication squares, made white backgrounds (to better see the laser) and then made a mark on each at the same level. Get the lines on the squares to meet the laser at both the front and rear of each pad, and you’ve got it level.

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With the setup of the setup pads done, it was time to…. do some setup on the scales. Specifically, I was sick of dealing with the rats nest each time I unspooled the cables, so I made left- and right-side “harnesses” to keep things tidy. They’ll run under the car down the middle so that they’re out of the way of jacks and what not.

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And with that, somehow, miraculously, despite taking what felt like most of my life, they’re complete and in service! They look great and will work great. Having now used them exactly once, they were already worth the effort. Being able to get and keep a consistent setup on the car (and help friends with their cars) can only be a good thing.

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Now to make 2 more sets…

 

Part 1
Part 2